(All information here is copyrighted by Brian Keller, 2012).
If this troubleshooting information doesn’t help solve the issue and you’d like to have it repaired, please send it to us. We repair all models of RainDial timers.
The Irritrol RD-600 series sprinkler controller message ‘FUS’ stand for Fuse. If you see a 5 (FU5), the 5 represents an S.
Bottom Line First: This is important to know about the RD600 irrigation timers
You can clear the message and see if it returns. If it doesn’t go away. It’s almost always caused by a shorted solenoid or wiring, not a fuse…) Solenoids are the electrical ‘switch’ on top of the valve that can be easily replaced. The rest of the valve is usually still good. In rare cases with the -R series, a full reset resolves the problem. All the information you need to know is below.
General overview: The information below can help isolate the problem to being an issue with a valve. Definitely use the this troubleshooting information below to help determine if a valve(s) seems to be the problem. If it’s not, just send it in for repair; we’re happy to help, but this is usually not caused by a timer problem.
TO CLEAR THE FUS OR FUS/5 MESSAGE:
Set the dial to the Current Time position, press the + or – button
If the FUS error won’t clear, perform steps to do a factory reset
(try both old and newer timer reset sequences)
If the FUS error clears, but keeps coming back, the following information will help you diagnose and fix it:
Try clearing the FUS message using the instructions below and see if it comes back. (Set the dial to the Current Time position, press the + or – button.)
- Despite the RD600 message, this does not mean the fuse is bad as you would expect. If you still want to, here’s a link on how. Not all back terminal boards have fuses, so don’t worry if you don’t see one, it’s normal based on the age of the timer.
- If the fuse is good and the message comes back
- the suspected “problem valve” number will show up in the top of the LCD screen when the FUS message is displayed.
- Try removing the wire for that valve number, clear the message and run the schedule again.
- If you have multiple numbers appearing, remove the wire for each of them, clear the message, and run the schedule without the valves connected.
- If the FUS message does not return with the wires disconnected, it’s likely a solenoid or valve wiring problem. Reconnect the valve wires one by one until you find out which one causes the error to appear; this is your suspected bad solenoid.
Once identified, try swapping around the bad valve wires to another terminal and see if the problem “follows” the valve wire. This will help confirm which one is bad. (The valve number shown with the FUS error will follow where you put that valve’s wire), If it follows the valve, check wiring and/or replace the solenoid.
- Solenoids are usually easy to replace, just turn the water off, disconnect the wires, unscrew the solenoid and replace it.
- You can get them from your local landscape supply store (E.g, SprinklerWorld, or other, but probably not HomeDepot or Lowes).
- If you want to pickup the parts first, take a picture of the valve to the store with you.
- If the RD600 series FUS message returns with the same valve number even if you moved the valve to a new location, it’s unlikely that you’d have two solenoids fail at the same time so check the wiring for damage due to recent digging by people or pets, etc… Next, try removing all the valve wires at the terminal board, including the MC/Pump wire if you have one, then clear the message. Repeat your testing. If no FUS message appears, re-connect one wire at a time until you see the FUS message; that will indicate the bad valve.
- If the message continuously re-appears and you see multiple valves listed in the display, and you have a connection to MC/Pump, the it’s likely the MC/Pump solenoid or relay has gone bad. The Pump typically turns on whenever any station/valve is on, so if the pump circuit is bad, it will make every valve look bad.
- You can test if the solenoids are bad if you have a meter capable of measuring resistance. Simply turn off all the valves and measure between the VC/Vcom terminal and the valve/station terminal (e.g., between VC and 1) every valve including the MC to VC/Vcom should measure around 20 to 40 ohms. If infinite ohms, you have a broken wire or bad solenoid that results in an open circuit and looks like it’s missing. If you have lower resistance, it’s likely that the solenoid has started to short out and is failing, or your wires are crossed and touching somewhere. See this post for more information on testing.
- If the message appears with no valves or MC/Pump wires connected, try doing a full factory reset (use both the older reset method and newer (-R series) reset methods. If no luck, it’s still very unlikely to be problem with the controller but if you’re convinced it could be, contact us here.
Other troubleshooting ideas: If the valves are the same, you can swap solenoids with a known working valve and see if the problem follows the suspected bad solenoid.
You can also disconnect the bad solenoid and clear the message. If you do this, the timer will work normally except for the one valve that was disconnected.
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