Ask your questions here – (They will appear shortly)

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To add a question, go to the bottom of the page, fill in the comment and click Post Comment.  

Please look at the DIY Troubleshooting section before posting, answers to most questions can be found there. 

You can also reply to other people’s questions if you like. (Thanks for helping)

Please try to include the following with your question, list:
1) the date code (located under the battery),
2) the model number shown on the face of the controller (usually below and to the left of the dial, e.g., RD-600 or RD-600-R).
3) Color (mostly Gray or Blue) based on the example rainDials shown at the top of the page.

860 thoughts on “Ask your questions here – (They will appear shortly)

  1. I have a rain dial-r. I would like to check to see if water is flowing. Line got cut, and repaired but I still don’t see water. I just want to see if it is working.

    • Hi John,

      If you can provide a little more info, I can help more. To turn on station 1 to test it, you can set the dial to station 1, put the bottom switch in the run position, press + to add some minutes, and the press the Manual On button.

      This should make the timer turn on the valve and indicate it’s on by putting a little number in the top row of the display. If you see this number, the timer is turning on the valve. Let me know what you see…

      Thanks,
      Brian

  2. I have a Rain Dial Model RD900-EXT. I have noticed our water bill having tripled the past 3 months. After checking for leaks, and adjusting all drippers, I noticed valve 2 was on during a day the system is programmed to be off. I have checked power to the system; done an ohm check and the solenoid seems ok; and the transformer works fine. What else could be allowing a valve to open when not programmed to open?

    • Hi Jon,
      The most likely thing is that you need to replace that valve- You can be certain that the timer is not the cause by unplugging it if you like, if you unplug it and the valve is still leaking then you know the timer is not the cause.
      The valve has rubber parts inside of it that fail over time. You’ll probably have to replace the valve guts- You should search for “valve guts” on the site and you should find the page on how to replace it!

      Thanks,
      Brian

      • Thanks Brian but I want you to understand that the timer did list valve 2 on the keypad when it was running. I have rebooted everything and will see if that fixes it. BTW: the battery box date code is 07-10-96.

  3. It’s my understanding the RD-900-R (or just the -R models in general) can work wtih a back circuit board that is of the standard varity — the difference being a 20-pin connector on the -R vs. 16-pin on the standard. I also beleive there is an adapter that can ‘cleanly’ convert the 20-pin to 16 but where do I find one? Obiously, I wouldn’t gain the rain sensor benefits having the standard back circuit board, but in the desert of AZ, not really needed. I do have my RD-900 control element but also have a 900-R (spare) that a friend no longer needed (and he didn’t have the back circuit board. My 900 timer box is starting to fail (again) given years of 110 degree+ heat. I routinely pull it apart and clean the dial contacts but they seem to have hit end of life. Yes, I can repair it again, but I have a new 900-R that I’d like to use. As I see it, I can upgrade the back circuit board to the -R (assuming I can find just a back circuit board), or try and locate a proper adapter. Thoughts?

    Related (sort of), I am currently doubling up on a zone given all 9 zones are in use — has worked fine for years, but I also understand the existing back board supports all 12 zones, and I’d just need a 12-zone timer box. I can see the zone connectors are there on the back board for solenoid connections – are my assumptions correct?

    Just trying ot weigh all options but given I have a spare 900-R, the easiest path would be to find the 20-pin to 16-pin converter and invest in a RD-1200 if this 900-R doesn’t work out?

    • Hi Rob,
      Wow, you know your stuff! You are correct, the -R models use a 20 pin and the older ones use a 16 pin. There is no cross compatibility there.
      It is very difficult to find just a backboard, and I only have like 2 left and I need to hang on to them. So, as you mentioned, that converter is your best bet. I have some- there’s two different kinds, I can splice in a 16 pin connector or I have a converter cable type thing.
      If you don’t want to get one from me, you can find them on Ebay I think that’s where I got mine.

      Thanks,
      Brian

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